Friday, July 19, 2019

Nepal - Kathmandu

For the next 2 months we will be traveling and volunteering in Nepal. So whilst the usual wildlife pictures will be posted, they won't be from Catalunya and there will also be lots of landscape and travel photography in general, but, in September, things will  return to normal. 

Kathmandu from the air - full of character even from this distance.
We arrived here on Tuesday 16th, not knowing what to expect, having read about the recent floods and resulting deaths in the news. We were surprised to see that everything was rather dry and thankfully it has been generally very fine, apart from a few heavy downpours, which have mostly been at night. 

First impressions? We love it here. I think we both agree that the people here are the friendliest and most genuine we have met on our travels yet. 

Hindu Celebration, Swayambhunath, Kathmandu
The food is incredible. We've started our trip staying with a local Kathmandu family who make the most amazing fresh, locally sourced food. To me it is rather similar to Indian food but still quite different. We've both really enjoyed trying all the various curries and other delicious surprises that our fantastic hosts have to offer - we've even had the chance to help out in the kitchen and are picking up a few tricks to bring back home!

Pushpa cooking lunch for her family and guests

Alba & Pushpa, preparing pumpkin leaves.
The city itself is full of things to see and do and for us an unplanned walk through the untrodden side- streets reveals the true character of any city and here it is no different. A walk through Kathmandu is exciting, with something different around every corner. 

Unknown Stupa, somewhere in the backstreets of Kathmandu

Local Kathmandu butcher with various cuts and entrails of Buffalo

Buddhist Monk praying with and blessing a local family, Swayambhunath, Kathmandu

A young holy cow - present throughout the roads and paths of Kathmandu

Kathmandu, viewed from Swayambhunath

Street Vendors, Kathmandu


A talented local carpenter, who kindly gave me the permission to take this photo, Kathmandu

Look behind you! Pashupatinath Temple
The most exciting find yet was a great big gathering of Hindu folk celebrating and dancing just down the road from our house. It was genuinely very uplifting seeing how much unhinged fun everyone was having.

Hindu celebration with dancing, Swayambhunath, Kathmandu. This guy was quite the character!

Hindu celebration with dancing, Swayambhunath, Kathmandu.

Hindu celebration with dancing, Swayambhunath, Kathmandu.

Hindu celebration with dancing, Swayambhunath, Kathmandu.

Hindu celebration with dancing, Swayambhunath, Kathmandu.

Hindu celebration with dancing, Swayambhunath, Kathmandu.
Another surprise has been the fact that cannabis just grows everywhere here! In gardens, at the side of the road, in blocked up roof gutters, you name it! I suppose you forget that these things have to be wild and native to somewhere, and Nepal is one of those places (it's native to central Asia and the Indian subcontinent). So despite its notoriety as a recreative drug, here, it is also just a roadside "weed".

Cannabis, picked from the roadside in Kathmandu city.

Towering Cannabis plants are not uncommon in the middle of the city.
Crossing and walking the roads has been a bit daunting but we are getting the hang of it. There are no real rules. Zebra crossings are rare and when you do find them you soon realise someone has wasted a lot of white paint! You just have to walk, watching the traffic, taking it one car/moped at a time! Hesitation could end in a painful result, it seems, and you just have to go against your instincts and walk out into the mess of traffic, knowing that nobody is really going to hit you once you do it sensibly! But this is all part of the charm of traveling. People are different! Cultures are different and so are the rules! Little things like this make you open your eyes and step out of your little bubble. I like that.

A non-functioning zebra crossing!
We have visited a few temples already and they are a big change to those we saw in southeast Asia, with these either being Hindu, or Buddhist with a Hindu influence. The most interesting of all, was Pashupatinath Temple, which is a Hindu temple, where river cremations occur - fascinating yet rather disturbing at the same time, for me at least. I didn't take any photos here (at least in the area where the cremations were taking place) and felt a little bit uncomfortable seeing tourists photographing or filming cremations, as families were clearly really upset about seeing off a beloved family member. Is documenting this really necessary? Reverse the role and imagine what you would think. Anyway, people are people and you can't control the actions of others, again another eye opener to how different we all are.  

Alba with a rather large bull, Pashupatinath Temple, Kathmandu

Cremation River, Pashupatinath Temple

Cremation River, Pashupatinath Temple

Hindu Lady, Pashupatinath Temple
In terms of wildlife - it isn't bad for being a densely populated city. I've seen lots of butterflies, birds and even a mammal tick in the form of a Small Asian Mongoose, but the best of the wildlife is yet to come when we move onward into the more rural destinations - so watch this space.  

Great Mormon, Kathmandu

Indian House Crow, Kathmandu

Rhesus Macaque, Swayambhunath, Kathmandu

Yoga Buddies, Swayambhunath, Kathmandu

Beautiful pet cat, Kathmandu. This individual looks very different the the domestic cats I'm used to seeing back home - perhaps it is derived from a different ancestral species?
We are going to be in and out of signal but we're going to try our best to keep this up to date with what we are seeing and doing. 

Seán & Alba.

Sunday, July 14, 2019

The Pyrenees

It's been a while since I've written on here but only because I've been busy birding and dabbling with butterflies!

Fontalba, in the Catalan Pyrynees
With the cessation of Spring migration, it was time to explore and enjoy the fruits of the local breeding sites. With increasing temperatures, the more northerly and of course higher altitudes of the  Pyrenees offer a pleasant retreat. On top of that the birding, and flora and fauna in general are spectacular.

High up in the Catalan Pyrenees, the cooler temperatures offer a gentle retreat from the warming Mediterranean temperatures of Barcelona.
These factors have resulted in me visiting the Pyrenees on multiple occasions since the last blog post - I absolutely love it up there. For any nature-lover the Pyrenees are just a must visit. Life there is so much less affected by modern day agriculture, and urbanization. It's like taking a step back in time, to a more simple life which comes hand in hand with a vastly healthier environment. This is reflected ten-fold in the wildlife to be found there, and over the last few weeks I have been utterly blown away by the biodiversity up there, yet I feel like I have literally only skimmed the surface.


This post is just a summary of what I have visited and seen over the last few weeks, being broken down into birds, mammals, butterflies and plants. I've literally taken 1000s of photos and can't post them all so this is a snapshot of what's to see in the Catalan (mostly) Pyrenees.

 Let's begin with my favourites - the birds! Fontalba is a fantastic spot to see some of the Pyrenean specialists, often from the comfort of the car, with the exception of the higher level species such as Alpine Accentor & Rock Ptarmigan, of course.

First up is Black Woodpecker - the largest of European Woodpeckers. The bird below was picked up as it flushed as I opened the car door at a routine road-corner stop on the zig-zagging ascent up Fontalba. This bird was feeding in an area of conifers where a previous fire had killed a significant area of trees, which resulted in subsequent tree decomposition by various invertebrates, all of which provide ample feeding for woodpeckers.

Black Woodpecker, Fontalba

Decomposing conifers provide ample feeding for Black Woodpeckers at this site, as is evident above. 

The call of the Black Woodpecker in my opinion is an epic plaintive cry unlike any other European species in there is something very wild sounding about it, just like the habitat in which the species is found.



One of the star birds of the Pyrenees, is of course Citril Finch, and Fontalba is an excellent site for the species, especially in the higher reaches on grassy verges near conifers. They often show extremely well if approached in the car with caution, such as the bird below.

Citril Finch, Fontalba. Views like this are possible if approached cautiously with a car.
Rock Thrushes are to be found higher up, in the rockier zones. This one was picked up at over 2000m and was coming down from some rocky scree to feed in an area of short grass with a recently fledged juvenile.


Another nice species to be had is Red Crossbill. They are relatively common here and are best picked up on call. Note the call type is distinctive to this Pyrenean population. Again, with patience and field-craft one can get really nice views of this species at Fontalba.


Rock Buntings are also numerous along the roadside drive to the car park at the top. Knowing the call and song of the species can be helpful in pinning them down but at times they are obviously visible on the roadside verges.


Fontalba is one of the premium sites in Catalunya for Ring Ouzel. Again, towards the higher reaches in areas which conifers, listen for the distinctively simple song quite unlike its close relative, the Blackbird. This bird below was photographed close to the car park, with a male and two fledged juveniles and I spent an amazing 5 minutes in awe watching and photographing them. They are really something special.


Another Pyrenean specialist (in terms of Catalunya), is Red-backed Shrike. These are easy at Fontalba in the mid-level paddocks with shrubby areas. Just scan any bushes you see on the way up and you will pick them up.


Fontalba also has some great mammals to see, namely Alpine Marmot, which was reintroduced from Italy in the 1950s, and the Pyrenean subspecies of Chamois, which was nearly hunted to extinction for its skin but has made a remarkable comeback. With some field-craft and some clever positioning behind ridges and boulders one can obtain fantastic views  of both species at Fontalba. 



Marmot territories are pretty easy to pick up!








Another great thing about the Pyrenees are the butterflies. Species diversity is very high and there are plenty to keep you occupied if you get tired of looking at all of the amazing birds and mammals. I'm still learning myself, but here are some of the nicer species I've seen there so far this year:

Dewy Ringlet, Puigmal, Catalunya

Small Copper, Puigmal, Catalunya

Adonis Blue, Fontalba, Catalunya

Black-veined White, Fontalba, Catalunya
Pearl-bordered Fritillary (I think!), Enveitg.
Moroccan Orange Tip, Enveitg, French Pyrynees - close to Catalan border
Provencal Fritillary (I think!), Enveitg

With regards plants - the Pyrenees are awash with all kinds of beautiful and unusual plants including many rare specialists, and they are worth a visit for these alone. Here are some highlights from this Spring/Summer:

Genitan sp, Fontalba

Black Vanilla Orchid, Fontalba
Bug Orchid, Fontalba

Burnt-tip Orchid, Fontalba
Fragrant Orchid, Fontalba

Greater-butterfly Orchid, Enveitg.

So whether you are into birds, butterflies, plants, cool mammals or just fancy seeing some amazing scenery - the Catalan Pyrenees are a must see if you are in Catalunya and have time.